How to Identify African Padauk
Vivid vermillion heartwood, coarse ring-porous end grain, and weight cues that separate padauk from bloodwood, redheart, and stained look-alikes.
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The first and most obvious clue is color. Freshly cut or sanded African Padauk is an intense orange-red to vermillion or blood-red found in almost no other common timber, sharply set off from its pale straw-colored sapwood. If you are examining an older piece that has already darkened to reddish-brown, scratch or sand a hidden spot: the bright orange color underneath the oxidized surface is a strong confirmation that it is padauk rather than a naturally brown wood.
Check the end grain and pores. Padauk is ring-porous to semi-ring-porous with large, open pores that are visible to the naked eye, often in a wavy or diagonal arrangement and sometimes filled with pale mineral or reddish deposits. The texture is coarse and open — noticeably more porous than fine diffuse-porous woods — and the grain runs straight to interlocked with a medium, slightly ribboned figure on quartered faces, matching the medium interlocked grain of the sample.
Weight and hardness are useful confirmations. Padauk is distinctly heavy in the hand and hard to dent with a thumbnail, consistent with its ~1,970 lbf Janka rating; a light, soft board that merely looks red is almost certainly a stained imitation. Freshly worked padauk has a faint characteristic scent, and its dust and shavings are unmistakably orange-red and will stain your hands and bench.
The main look-alikes are other red tropical woods. Bloodwood (Brosimum / satine) is a deeper, more uniform brick-red, much denser and finer-textured with tiny pores, and it holds its color far better than padauk. Redheart (Erythroxylum / chakte kok) is a brighter pinkish-red but lighter in weight and finer-grained. Other Pterocarpus species such as Burma/Andaman padauk are browner-red and more figured. And any suspiciously uniform red on a lightweight, bland-grained board points to dyed or stained wood rather than true padauk — the giveaway is that real padauk's color sits in vivid heartwood with pale sapwood and coarse open pores, not in a flat surface tint.
Frequently asked questions
How can I be sure a red board is padauk and not a stain?
Look at the end grain and the sapwood. Real padauk is ring-porous with large open pores and shows a sharp change to pale straw sapwood, and its heavy weight and hardness are obvious in the hand. A stained board is uniformly colored, usually lighter in weight, and lacks the coarse pore structure. Sanding padauk also throws distinctly orange-red dust.
How do I tell African Padauk from bloodwood?
Bloodwood is a deeper, more even brick-red, considerably denser and harder, and much finer-textured with very small pores; it also keeps its color far better. Padauk starts a brighter orange-red, has coarse open pores, and mellows toward reddish-brown over time. Side by side the pore size and the brightness of the fresh color give it away.
Does padauk always stay bright orange?
No. The vivid vermillion is the fresh color; with air and UV exposure it darkens over months to a warm reddish-brown or muted purple-brown. If you find a brown board you suspect is padauk, scratch a concealed area to reveal the bright color beneath, which confirms the identification.
Is there more than one wood called padauk?
Yes. Several Pterocarpus species are sold as padauk, including Burma/Andaman padauk (P. macrocarpus) and Asian species. African Padauk (P. soyauxii) is the brightest orange-red and the most common in Western trade; the Asian ones tend to be browner-red and more figured. Confirm the species when it matters, especially since some Pterocarpus rosewoods are CITES-restricted while P. soyauxii is not.
African Padauk identified by the community
Recent African Padauk samples identified with Wood Identifier.